First Family of Mughal Nobility I: Quest starts in Badaun

Opening Note: This is the first of a multiple-part story. It is about a family of nobles that seems to turn up repeatedly while studying Mughal history, making themselves almost indispensable across several generations of rulers, beginning with Akbar and going on till Aurangzeb’s successors, encompassing a period of over 130 years. While the stories […]

Lasting Faith in Kanpur Temple

It is a curious observation that several villages in Uttar Pradesh have ‘Bujurg’ suffixed to their names? Kushinagar district has a Rampur Bujurg and a Pipra Bujurg, there exists a Bisanda Bujurg in Banda, a Bistauli Bujurg in Gorakhpur – that’s just to name a few. While it is difficult to be sure about the […]

A Graveyard in Kalpi

A journey south-west from Lucknow towards Jhansi is a bit like going into a different universe. Once Lucknow and Kanpur are left behind, there are no more large cities, the greens and browns of the countryside become the dominating colours, there are more trucks and tractors than cars on the road and the air is […]

Hidden Heritage in Kanpur Rural

This Hidden heritage story will take readers beyond known sites, plunging deep into the Kanpur rural countryside. These sites are either a mystery to locals or are unprotected by the ASI. To make journeys safer and better planned, a series of kos minars was built at regular intervals. The first site is linked to the […]

The Lion King of Dudhai

A forest range road leads a visitor from Deogarh in Lalitpur to Dudhai village. While driving through, he might suddenly come across a small bundle of sticks at the edge of the road. A bundle left behind by a forest dweller frightened by the sound of the vehicle, to be reclaimed when the potential danger […]